When a designer designs his suits its perfect look will be for a man that is between 5′10″ and 6′ tall and will weigh some where around 160-170 lbs. I do not even have to tell you how ridiculous a standard that is as very few American men fall with in this range. The design is then proportioned and scaled to match all the other off the rack sizes. The “L” or long version and the “S” version of a suit will generally account for a 2″ inch swing in either direction. In general a long version is made for a man 6′1″ to 6′3″ and a short is made for 5′7″ to 5′8″. So for the millions of American men who fall out of this range finding a suit can be a challenge.
Today we will focus on the “L” or long version, as many tall men can attest, suit shopping can be quite an ordeal. Sleeves, suit jacket hems, button stance these all seem to never be long enough. The ultimate challenge comes in the form of using the suit to keep an already tall man from looking gangly. Being tall has a tendency to make a man look skinnier than he really is so knowing these tricks of the trade can help minimize this.
- Tall men should shop for a longer jacket. This usually comes in the form of a 3 or even a 4 button suit. The higher button stance covers more of the torso giving a less lanky appearance, while the longer jacket gives a little more proportion to the ratio between the legs and the upper body.
- Make sure that the brand proportions everything to the size. this is such a subtle detail most people will miss but it is one of the best features found in custom suits for tall men. To see if the brand you are looking to buy does this, grab a 38 short from the rack to compare to your size. Take a look at the breast welt pocket does your size have a larger one? If it does not switch to another brand. Making every detail proportioned to your size is what gives the illusion of a great fit. Tall men need the pockets, lapels, flaps, collars, and cuffs etc. on their suit to match their height.
- Flat front trousers may be in fashion right now but a single pleat will actually fit you better. Have the tailor put a medium break in the pants and a 2″ cuff (proportioned to you remember?) this will weigh down the hem and give sharp crease. Avoid more than one pleat at all cost. It gives a bulky hip area and really serves no purpose.
- Heavier fabrics with texture work best. Look for flannel wool, or wool with a mill finish. This adds body and a tall lanky man can definitely use a little more bulk.
Chris Vance is the senior trends and fashion spotter for Requisite clothing, a custom clothing design house specializing in custom suits, custom shirts, custom tuxedos and sports wear for both men and women.